What’s that low but persistent rumble in the distance? It’s not thunder, it’s tutting. Waitrose has announced that from April 3, they will no longer serve free coffee to their customers and the British middle classes haven’t been so affronted by anything since the Chelsea Flower Show lifted its ban on gnomes. (For one year only, 2013. Dark times. Let us never speak of this again.)
This development
has been greeted with glee by some, delighted at the prospect of aisles no
longer cluttered with purchase-free caffeine junkies. Their happiness will no
doubt be short lived as plucky little chancers cram the tills, queuing to pay
for a single grape or green bean (take THAT! capitalist oppressors) in order to
collect their ‘free’ refreshment.
For others, Waitrose’s
greatest crime against the smooth running of civilisation comes from their insistence
you now complete your transaction before you can collect your free coffee. What
fresh hell. For many of us, caffeine is the only legal substance that will get
us through the Big Shop. You need it to spur you on as you steer through fresh
produce, dairy and beyond, not when you’re trying to wrangle ten bags for life
into the back of a Volvo.
But Waitrose,
at the risk of sounding churlish, you’ve brought this grumpiness entirely on
yourselves. I’ve watched enough legal dramas to know that you should never ask
a question in open court to which you don’t already know the answer. Similarly,
you should never give a treat which you later withdraw. Ungrateful humans will
only remember the removal of privilege, not your generosity in having granted
it in the first place.
The truth is
Waitrose, and you should know this, you can forget about decent schools, many
of us fork out a premium to live within the catchment area of your wholesome,
artisanal, organic embrace. We’ve scrimped on the square footage and convinced
ourselves we don’t mind about the lack of view/parking/en suite so we never have
to be more than a mile from cooking chorizo and Fevertree tonic ever, ever
again.
That, dear
Waitrose, your ‘essentials’ range includes amber bath foam, profiteroles, gooseberry
fruit fool and champagne flutes makes us feel a little less alone in the world.
We don’t even mind that the accident in the alliteration factory lead you to
name perfectly innocent herbs ‘Simple Sage’, ‘Romantic Rosemary’ and
‘Tantalising Tarragon’. We thought we were friends. We had an understanding.
For those of
us who feel bereft, betrayed, there is hope. Rumours spread quickly yesterday,
at school gates and on dog walks, in offices and factories, in all places where
slightly tired people gather, that Pret à Manger’s staff still have discretion
to give you free coffee if they like you. Charm offensive over the beetroot and
radish on rye in 3, 2, 1…
But there is
another way. My father, a tolerant person in all other respects, is continually
appalled at the dreadful modern affectation of being unable to walk more than
20 yards without clutching flat whites in our feebly under-caffeinated hands.
Perhaps he has a point. How can we chastise toddlers who remain too long
dependent on their dummies when we’re unable to complete the most simple of
tasks without holding a cup in a death grip? We’re better than this.
Perhaps, after all – and as I have often
suspected - Waitrose is here to save us from our baser selves.
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